ISO 16322-3:2021 Textiles — Determination of spirality after laundering —Part 3: Woven and knitted garments

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Textiles — Determination of spirality after laundering —Part 3: Woven and knitted garments由国际标准化组织(International Organization for Standardization，简称ISO)于2021‑04‑20发布，适用于世界范围。

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INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 16322-3:2021

Textiles — Determination of spirality after laundering —

Part 3: Woven and knitted garments

1 Scope

This document specifies procedures to measure the spirality or torque of woven and knitted garments after domestic laundering.

The results obtained from different procedures might not be comparable.

This document is not intended to measure the spirality of garments as manufactured, but rather the spirality after domestic laundering.

NOTE Some fabric constructions, such as denim, can have spirality intentionally introduced during manufacturing. Garments made of fabrics from circular knitting machines can have inherent nonverticality of wale alignment.

2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing

ISO 6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing

3 Terms a nd definiti ons

For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp

— IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/

3.1

spirality

torque

rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment

Note 1 to entry: The phenomenon is sometimes referred to as twist, for example, denim jean leg twist.

4 Principle

Test specimens are prepared, marked and laundered according to specified procedures. Spirality is measured in percentage of a marked distance.

ISO 16322-3:2021

5 Apparatus

5.1 Automatic washing machine, as described in ISO 6330, the type agreed upon between parties.

5.2 Automatic drying machine, as described in ISO 6330, and agreed upon between parties.

5.3 Calibrated ruler, at least 500 mm in length, with 1 mm graduated mark.

5.4 T-square, at least 500 mm in length.

5.5 Conditioning rack.

6 Conditioning

Condition the garments in the standard atmosphere for textile testing in accordance with ISO 139, for a minimum of 4 h before marking or measuring them.

7 Test specimen

Select two garments to represent the sample. Mark appropriate distances on the garments.

8 Marking procedures

8.1 Procedure A — Garment, within-panel

8.1.1 Normal procedure

Mark reference line YZ across the width of the garment panel 75 mm above the bottom edge or hem (see Figure 1). If the bottom edge or hem is not straight, draw the reference line YZ perpendicular to the vertical axis of symmetry of the garment.

Place benchmark A midway along line YZ. Place one leg of a right angle device along line YZ so that the second leg is perpendicular upward from benchmark A. Draw a line parallel to line YZ, 500 mm above point A. Mark the intersection of the new line and the point directly above A. This is point B. If the garment panel size is insufficient to mark a 500 mm distance, mark the longest available length which is at least 75 mm below the upper edge of the test garment. Measure and record AB (see Figure 1).

8.1.2 Alternative procedure

If preferred, spirality may be determined using Procedure A as defined in ISO 16322‑2:2021, 7.1.

8.2 Procedure B — Garment, panel sides

Lay the test garment flat with seams falling at their natural alignment. Circular knit garments that do not have side seams should be laid flat in the natural vertical alignment as if they had seams.

Mark the bottom edge or hem that intersects with the side seam or natural side edge of the garment. Mark another point up the seam or edge fold, 500 mm above the marked side hem point. This will be distance AB (see Figure 3). If the garment panel size is insufficient to mark a 500 mm distance, use the longest available length.

If the test specimens exhibit spirality prior to laundering, include those results in the report.

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