ISO 16322-2:2021 Textiles — Determination of spirality after laundering —Part 2: Woven and knitted fabrics

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Textiles — Determination of spirality after laundering —Part 2: Woven and knitted fabrics由国际标准化组织(International Organization for Standardization，简称ISO)于2021‑04‑20发布，适用于全球范围。

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INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 16322-2:2021

Textiles — Determination of spirality after laundering —

Part 2: Woven and knitted fabrics

1 Scope

This document specifies three procedures (diagonal marking, inverted‑T marking and mock‑garment marking) to measure the spirality or torque of woven and knitted fabrics after domestic laundering.

The results obtained from different procedures will not always be comparable.

This document is not intended to measure the spirality of fabrics as manufactured, but rather the spirality after laundering.

NOTE Some fabric constructions, such as denim, can have spirality intentionally introduced during manufacturing. Fabrics made on circular knitting machines can have inherent nonverticality of wale alignment.

2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing

ISO 6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing

3 Terms a nd definiti ons

For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp

— IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/

3.1

spirality

torque

fabric condition, wherein filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of a fabric or garment

4 Principle

Test specimens are cut, prepared, marked, and laundered according to specified procedures. Spirality is measured in millimetres, percentage of a marked distance, or angle of nonverticality.

5 Apparatus

5.1 Automatic washing machine, as described in ISO 6330, the type agreed upon between parties.

ISO 16322-2:2021

5.2 Automatic drying machine, as described in ISO 6330, and agreed upon between parties.

5.3 Calibrated ruler, at least 500 mm in length, with 1 mm graduated marks.

5.4 Conditioning rack.

5.5 Sewing machine.

5.6 T-square, at least 500 mm in length.

5.7 Marking template, of dimensions 380 mm × 380 mm, 680 mm × 380 mm or 580 mm × 510 mm.

6 Conditioning

Condition the fabric or garments in the standard atmosphere for testing in accordance with ISO 139, for a minimum of 4 h before cutting, sewing or measuring the fabric specimens.

7 Test specimen preparation and marking procedures

7.1 Procedure A — Diagonal marking

7.1.1 Test specimen preparation

Prepare three specimens for marking from appropriate locations across a fabric sample. Place a 380 mm × 380 mm template on single‑ layer fabric, aligned with selvedge or tubular fold line. Cut three specimens. Take each specimen with different length and width yarns or different wales and courses. Cut no test specimen from within 150 mm of laboratory sample edges.

7.1.2 Diagonal marking procedure

Mark two pairs of 250 mm benchmark sets parallel to the length, and two pairs of 250 mm benchmark sets perpendicular to the width, to make a square.

Draw a line through each of the four sets of adjacent benchmarks to denote the square formed.

Label the corners A, B, C and D in a clockwise direction starting at the lower left corner (see Figure 1).

7.2 Procedure B — Inverted-T marking

7.2.1 Test specimen preparation

This marking procedure is particularly suited to narrow‑ width fabrics.

Place a 680 mm × 380 mm template with the long dimension aligned with the selvedge, or folded edge if the samples are a tubular knit. Cut three specimens.

7.2.2 Inverted-T marking

Draw a line, YZ, across the width of the specimen 75 mm above the edge of the specimen.

Place benchmark A perpendicular to the YZ line midway along the horizontal line.

Using a T‑ square device, mark point B 500 mm above point A on the vertical line (see Figure 4).

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